SRI NABADWIP DHAM MAHATMYA-MUKTA-MALA

Antardwip (Atmanivedanam: self-submission)

Sri Barakona Ghat and Sri Madhai Ghat

As we continue our parikrama of Sri Antardwip, by the mercy of Sri Gurupadpadma we have now come to Sri Madhai Ghat. There is also Sri Barakona Ghat nearby (after the current of the Ganges changed, it has existed in a hidden way), and near Sri Barakona Ghat is the house of Sri Sachi Mata and Sri Jagannath Misra. Many very special pastimes of Mahaprabhu took place here.

In the time of Mahaprabhu, Nabadwip was a renowned place of education (it was often called the ‘Oxford’ of India). One time, an old pandit called Kesav Kasmiri, who had conquered all great scholars of Kashmir and Kasi, came here desiring to conquer Nabadwip. When he arrived, he heard from the prominent mayavadis and gosanis that Nimai Pandit was the most erudite scholar among all scholars of Nabadwip and that everybody came to Him if they wanted to learn something.

At that time, Mahaprabhu Nimai Visvambhar was only a sixteen-year-old youth, and He was teaching Sanskrit primary grammar. One day, He went with His pupils to the bank of the Ganges and started discussing some grammar points. Seeing Nimai’s extraordinary radiance from afar, Digvijayi Pandit (‘digvijayi’ means ‘one who has conquered all scholars’) came up to Him to talk. Nimai treated Digvijayi Pandit with much respect – He gave him a seat on a raised platform and said, ‘We are very fortunate that you have come to us today. You have conquered so many places, there is no scholar who could match you.’ Hearing Nimai’s sweet words, Digvijayi Pandit became even prouder.

‘Everybody says You are a great pandit,’ he said to Nimai. ‘What do You teach?’

‘Nothing special,’ Nimai replied. ‘Actually, I have not studied anything, so I am only teaching the Sanskrit primary grammar.’

‘The primary grammar of Sanskrit? But this is nothing! Have You not read the Vedas and the Vedanta?’

‘My guru never ordered Me to study all this,’ Nimai explained. ‘Considering Me a fool, My guru told Me to engage in Hari-kirtan – he told Me to always chant and dance. So, apart from that, I do not know anything.’

kiba mantra dila, gosani, kiba tara bala
japite japite mantra karila pagala

‘What mantra have you given Me, Gosai? What sort of power does it possess? I have been chanting this mantra, and it has made Me mad!’

(Sri Chaitanya-charitamrita, 1.7.81)

‘All right,’ Digvijayi Pandit said then, ‘but everybody praises You, and even I have heard Your name.’

‘People are affectionate to Me, that is why they say many things.’ Then, Nimai Pandit folded His palms and said, ‘Prabhu, can I ask you something? As we are sitting here on the bank of the Ganges, can you say something in glorification of the Ganges?’

‘I can, but how will You be able to understand the glories of the Ganges? You are just a primary-grammar teacher! You have not even read the Vedas and the Vedanta!’

‘Well, I will try,’ Nimai replied humbly.

Then, Digvijayi Pandit started to recite slokas at a lightening speed. Having recited a hundred slokas, he stopped, and Nimai Pandit said, ‘We cannot understand everything, but if you could explain to us the meaning of one–two slokas, perhaps, we will understand something.’

Digvijayi Pandit decided to test Nimai Pandit, so he asked Him, ‘I have recited many verses, which verse’s meaning would You like to hear?’

‘This one,’ said Nimai and recited the verse:

mahattvam gangayah satatamidamabhati nitaram
yadesa sri-visnos-charana-kamalotpatti-subhaga
dvitiya-sri-laksmir iva suranair archchya-charana
bhavani-bharturya sirasi vibhavaty-adbhuta-guna

‘The greatness of Mother Ganges always exists brilliantly. She is most fortunate because she emanates from the lotus feet of Supreme Lord Vishnu. She is a second goddess of fortune and, therefore, is always worshipped by both demigods and humans. Endowed with all wonderful qualities, she flourishes on the head of Lord Siva.’

(Sri Chaitanya-charitamrita, 1.16.41)

Digvijayi Pandit was taken aback, ‘I spoke those verses at a lightening speed, how could You remember this particular verse?!’

“prabhu kahe, devera bare tumi ‘kavi-bara’
aichhe devera bare keha haya ‘sruti-dhara’”

Prabhu said, ‘By the mercy of the Lord, you are known as a great poet; similarly, by the mercy of the Lord, somebody else can also be blessed with great memory (can remember everything by hearing it just once).’

(Sri Chaitanya-charitamrita, 1.16.41)

‘You have got a boon from Saraswati Devi,’ Nimai Pandit replied, ‘and I have also got a boon from her – I can remember everything just by hearing it once.’

Annoyed, Digvijayi Pandit explained the meaning of the verse, but his explanation was full of mayavad conception. Nimai Pandit said, ‘We are fortunate to hear the explanation of the verse’s meaning, but could you tell us about the merits and faults in the composition of this verse?’

Getting even more annoyed, Digvijayi Pandit cried out, ‘Faults?! There are no faults in this verse! All that I have said is correct!’

‘Yes, of course,’ Mahaprabhu replied, ‘but even great scholars can make a mistake. I see that there is some mistake in the verse.’

‘If You see it, then You say what it is.’

‘If you do not become angry, I will say it.’ Then, Mahaprabhu explained everything, and He explained everything in such a way that Digvijayi Pandit’s head drooped.

The pupils began to laugh, but Mahaprabhu scolded them, ‘Hey, what are you doing? Stop it! Stop it!’ and then said to Digvijayi Pandit humbly, ‘Prabhu, please do not take My offence; please forgive Me. They do not understand anything. You are a great scholar, but, perhaps, you are not feeling well today, or you are not in the mood. Come tomorrow, we can meet and talk again.’

Returning to his room at night, Kesav Kasmiri did not eat anything. He kept thinking, ‘I have come to Nabadwip to defeat all scholars, but I have been defeated by a small boy! O Devi! What offence have I made to you? You have told me that nobody in this world would be able to defeat me!’ With these thoughts in his mind he went to rest, and at night Saraswati Devi appeared to him in a dream and said, ‘O Digvijayi Pandit, O Kesav Kasmiri! Wake up! I have come to see you. Do you know who defeated you today? Do you know who He is? Did you recognise Him? What I told you is true – nobody in this world can defeat you; but He is not a man of this world. He may look like an ordinary man, but He is actually the Lord Himself!’

isvarah paramah krsnah sach-chid-ananda-vigrahah
anadir adir govindah sarva-karana-karanam

‘Krishna, who is known as Govinda, is the supreme controller. He has an eternal, blissful, spiritual body. He is the origin of all. He has no other origin, for He is the prime cause of all causes.’

(Sri Brahma-samhita, 5.1)

‘He is my Lord, my Master! You have become my disciple, and now you have got the highest teachings from Him. Go to Him again tomorrow and apologise.’

The next day, when Mahaprabhu was going to bath in the Ganges, Digvijayi Pandit saw Nimai and cried out to Him from afar, ‘Prabhu! Wait! Hold on!’ Catching up with Nimai, Digvijayi Pandit clasped His feet. Mahaprabhu said, ‘Kasmiri! Is that you? You are a world-renowned pandit, why are you touching My feet?! What are you doing?’ Digvijayi Pandit pleaded, ‘Prabhu, please do not deceive me any more. I could not recognise You before, but Saraswati Devi, from whom I have learnt everything, has told me who You are. Please forgive my offence, I am surrendering at Your holy lotus feet. Please accept me.’

This is how Mahaprabhu rescued Digvijayi Pandit here, at this very Barakona Ghat. Also, the place where we are sitting right now is called Sri Madhai Ghat, and one very famous pastime took place here.

When Mahaprabhu began preaching, He first appointed Sriman Nityananda Prabhu and Srila Haridas Thakur as His generals in the preaching field. He instructed them:

“suna suna nityananda, suna haridasa
sarvatra amara ajna karaha prakasa
prati ghare ghare giya kara ei bhiksa
‘bala krsna, bhaja krsna, kara krsna siksa’
iha bai ara na baliba, balaiba
dina-avasane asi’ amare kahiba”

‘Listen, listen, Nityananda! Listen, Haridas! Make My order known everywhere – go to each and every house and beg everyone, “Say Krishna, worship Krishna, learn about Krishna!” Do not speak or hear about anything except that. In the evening, come to Me and tell Me the news.’

(Sri Chaitanya-bhagavata, 2.13.8-10)

‘Listen, Nitai! Listen, Haridas!’ Mahaprabhu said. ‘I am ordering you to go door to door and tell people about Krishna. Tell people to chant the Holy Name of Krishna, tell them to accept the teachings of Lord Krishna. And at night, come back to Me and tell Me what has happened during the day.’

Following this order, Nityananda Prabhu and Haridas Thakur started preaching house to house in Nadia.

In the meantime, there were two sinful drunkard brothers, Jagai and Madhai, who had been roaming around different places. One day, they came to Nabadwip and decided to stay at the ghat where Mahaprabhu usually bathed. At night, when Mahaprabhu chanted kirtan at the house of Srila Srivas Pandit, they could hear the sounds of the chanting and would start dancing, singing and drinking even more.

One night, Nityananda Prabhu was passing by that ghat, and this was when He saw them for the first time. The next day, He told Haridas Thakur, ‘Haridas, you know, there are two drunkards living at our Lord’s ghat. Everyone is scared to even look at them, but if we come to them and tell them to chant the Holy Name of Krishna, then everyone will think, “Look, Jagai and Madhai are chanting the Holy Name!” and they will become even more enthusiastic to chant the Holy Name of Lord Krishna!’

Srila Haridas Thakur agreed, and Nityananda Prabhu immediately rushed to the ghat – He ran so fast that Haridas Thakur, who was already quite old at that time, could not keep up with Him. Looking behind, Nityananda Prabhu kept calling him, ‘Haridas! Are you coming? Come, come!’ Haridas Thakur replied, ‘I am coming, I am coming. Go first, I am coming behind You.’ When people on the street saw where Nityananda Prabhu and Haridas Thakur were heading, they warned them, ‘Be careful! Where are you two going? They are horrible and dangerous people! Do not go there! They will kill you!’

Starting to feel uneasy, Haridas Thakur said, ‘Nitai, have You heard what these people are saying?’ But Nityananda Prabhu did not care. He only said, ‘Do not be afraid! Come with Me!’

When they reached the ghat, they approached Jagai and Madhai. Seeing both brothers stark drunk, Nityananda Prabhu, the rescuer of the fallen and mercy incarnate, said, ‘Brothers! Say, “Krishna”!’ The brothers got angry and threatened Nityananda Prabhu, ‘Who are You? Get out of here! Otherwise we will kill You!’

By this time, Haridas Thakur had caught up with Nityananda Prabhu, but hearing these words, he quickly ran away. Nityananda Prabhu left, too, and later He asked Haridas Thakur, ‘Why did you run away?? We must go there again tomorrow!’

The next day, they again went to that ghat. Nityananda Prabhu again asked Jagai and Madhai, ‘Please say “Krishna” just one time!’ Swearing at Nityananda Prabhu, Jagai and Madhai were going to strike Him, but Nityananda Prabhu was not afraid. He repeated, ‘I am clasping your feet – please chant the Holy Name of Krishna!’ Then, Madhai became furious and hurled a piece of a broken clay pot at Nityananda Prabhu. Struck by the piece of clay, Nityananda Prabhu’s head began to bleed. When Haridas Thakur saw blood falling from Prabhu’s head, he fled again, but this time he ran to Mahaprabhu and told Him what had happened: ‘Prabhu, You have ordered Nitai to preach the Holy Name of Krishna everywhere, but do You know what has just happened? That drunkard Madhai has beaten Nitai! Nitai’s head is bleeding so much!’

Mahaprabhu was enraged when He heard it. He started calling His Sudarsan-chakra – calling again and again, ‘Chakra, chakra, chakra!’ He ran to the ghat. In the meantime, even having been beaten, Nityananda Prabhu was not afraid – He simply laughed and again begged Madhai to chant the Holy Name of Krishna.

We sing in one of the kirtans, ‘Mar kheye-o Nam prema yache! Even when He is beaten, He keeps bestowing the gift of transcendental love for the Lord!’ So much blood was falling from His head, but He did not say anything – He only kept saying, ‘Say “Krishna”! Please chant the Holy Name of Krishna! Say “Hare Krishna”!’ Clasping everyone’s feet, Sri Nityananda Prabhu distributed the Holy Name of Krishna, begging everyone, ‘Take it! Take it! You can buy Me if you take this Holy Name of Krishna!’ He would chant:

bhaja gauranga, kaha gauranga, laha gauranger nam re
ye jana gauranga bhaje, sei amar pran re

‘Worship Gauranga, speak about Gauranga, chant Gauranga’s Name! Those who worship Gauranga are My heart and soul!’

Hearing Nityananda Prabhu’s words, Madhai was so enraged that he was about to strike Him again, but this time Jagai caught hold of his hand and said, ‘Leave it, brother. It is no use beating a sannyasi.’

By this time, Mahaprabhu came running with His Sudarsan-chakra. Seeing Sudarsan-chakra next to Him, Nityananda Prabhu stopped Him, ‘My Lord, You have promised that You will not fight with weapons in Kali-yuga. You have promised that You will spread only love and affection. Please do not be angry. Yes, Madhai has hit Me, but Jagai has saved Me! Please rescue these two! There is no one else in this world except You who can save them!’

Seeing Mahaprabhu’s anger, the two sinners began to tremble, but when Mahaprabhu heard that Jagai had saved Nitai, He at once became very pleased. Embracing Jagai all of a sudden, Mahaprabhu gave him pure loving devotion and showed him His four-armed form. When Jagai saw this transcendental form of the Lord, he became overwhelmed with divine love and, falling at the holy lotus feet of Mahaprabhu, began to roll on the ground and cry.

Madhai saw his brother’s state, and his mood changed, too. He at once fell at Mahaprabhu’s holy lotus feet and apologised. But Mahaprabhu said to him, ‘Because you have hit Nityananda Prabhu, I will not accept you. Nitai’s body means more than My own body to Me, so if anyone commits an offence at His lotus feet, I can never accept this person.’ Madhai began to weep, ‘What will become of me then, Prabhu? If You do not bestow Your mercy upon me, how can I ever be rescued in this world?’

Then, Sriman Mahaprabhu, the saviour of the fallen, spoke again. ‘Clasp Nitai’s holy feet and ask Him to forgive your offence, then you will be rescued.’ Madhai immediately fell at Nityananda Prabhu’s holy lotus feet and begged Him to forgive his offence. In response to that, Nityananda Prabhu declared, ‘If I have any sukriti from any of My previous births, I am giving all this sukriti to Madhai!’ Then, Nityananda Prabhu pulled Madhai up, and as He embraced him, He entered his body. Seeing this astonishing pastime, everyone started to loudly chant the Lord’s Names.

This is how Jagai and Madhai were rescued. From that time on, both brothers became great devotees. Receiving Nityananda Prabhu’s and Mahaprabhu’s mercy, they started to chant the Holy Name every day. They felt very much ashamed because they always remembered their previous sins. Especially Madhai cried a lot, remembering his offence of striking Nityananda Prabhu and making blood fall from His holy body.

One day, Madhai fell at the holy lotus feet of Nityananda Prabhu and again begged Him to forgive his offence. Sri Nityananda Prabhu is supremely merciful – He hugged Madhai and, pressing him to His chest, said: ‘Listen, do something for Me. Make a proper ghat here and serve this place.’

Following the order of Nityananda Prabhu, Madhai established here a ghat (a bathing place with nice steps to enter the water and other amenities) and cleaned it every day. Not only that, when people came here to bath in the Ganges, he would come to everyone and beg them to forgive his offence. In olden days, there were no bathrooms, so everyone would pass stool somewhere on the bank and then bath in the Ganges – Jagai and Madhai would personally sweep the ghat and clean all stool every day. It is written in Sri Chaitanya-bhagavata (2.15.92–98):

“parama kathora tapa karaye madhai
‘brahmachari’ hena khyati haila tathai
niravadhi ganga dekhi’ thake ganga-ghate
svahaste kodali lana apanei khate
adyapiha chinta achhe chaitanya-krpaya
‘madhai ghata’ bali’ sarva-loke gaya

‘Madhai performed severe penance and became known as Madhai Brahmachari. He always beheld the Ganges and stayed at the ghat on the bank of the Ganges. With a spade, he cleaned the place with his own hands. By the mercy of Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, this place is still present in this world, glorified by everyone as Madhai Ghat.’

There is one more very important thing. Madhai was a terrible drunkard, he could steal, he could kill, but he had one very good quality – he never committed a vaisnav-aparadha. You may wonder, ‘But he has beaten Nityananda Prabhu! Is that not an offence?’ It is, but if he had not struck Sriman Nityananda Prabhu, how would he have been rescued? Moreover, if Madhai had not struck Nityananda Prabhu, Nityananda Prabhu’s glory would not have been revealed in this world.

Coming to this ghat, we must all pay our obeisance here and pray that such vile and sinful souls as we are (‘Jagai Madhai haite muni se papistha, purisera kita haite muni se laghistha. I am more sinful than Jagai and Madhai, I am more insignificant than a worm in stool!’) could somehow one day receive Nityananda Prabhu’s causeless mercy and service to His devotees. This is our only hope.

Jay Sri Jagai Madhai Prabhu ki jay.
Jay Sriman Nityananda Prabhu ki jay.
Sri Barakona Ghat and Sri Madhai Ghat ki jay.

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